Over Memorial Day weekend, Sammy and I ventured off to Chicago for a little getaway.
The trip started off a little rocky when the cab driver dropped us off at the wrong terminal. We were flying Delta Shuttle, which we mistakenly assumed was the same as Delta. We didn't realize our mistake until we were attempting to go through security and were informed we were in the wrong terminal. The correct terminal was not within walking distance either, so we had to hail another cab and reload our luggage. The driver pulled us up to what looked like a regional airport, which was actually the Marine Terminal of La Guardia Airport. Luckily the line was super short, so we managed to get through security and at our gate with just 10 minutes to spare.
Once we arrived in Chicago, we realized it was much colder there than it had been back in New York. I started to panic that I had not packed properly, but Sam assured me the weather forecast slated Friday to be the coolest day. We got checked into our room at the Westin on N. Michigan Avenue. If we went back, we would not stay in the area again. It was a bit like staying in Times Square in New York - too many tourists and did not give a real feel for the true city.
For lunch we went to the classic Chicago dive called Billy Goat's Tavern. It has been in Chicago since 1939 and is cash only. The menu consists of hamburger, double hamburger, cheeseburger, double cheeseburger, or grilled cheese. They do not serve fries or rings, and do not serve Pepsi products. Their motto is, "No fries, chips! No Pepsi, Coke!" Stepping up in the line to order was a bit intimidating and reminiscent of the Soup Nazi. The man behind the counter was much nicer than the Soup Nazi, although when I tried to order a grilled cheese, he said, "Grilled cheese? No. Double cheese!" (as in double cheeseburger). When I stood waiting for my food, I was unsure whether or not I would actually get my grilled cheese or not. I ended up getting my grilled cheese and Sam had the double cheeseburger. It was cool to be at such an iconic place.
After lunch, we headed to Millennium Park. Luckily the sun was out that day, so we were able to enjoy some beautiful views, even if it was chilly. Sam took photos of the outdoor art and the expansive garden there. We made our way to the south end of the park and toured the Chicago Art Institute and got to see several famous paintings. That night we had a wonderful dinner at Frontera Grill, a Rick Bayless Mexican-style restaurant. It was no KC Mexican food (I'm extremely biased on that one...), but it was pretty tasty, and we had a really entertaining waiter with an interesting curly tipped mustache.
Inside of the Art Institute.
The "Bean" in Millennium Park.
Water art in Millennium Park.
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Shot of downtown buildings.
The next morning, we awoke to a clouded sky and the same cool temperatures from the day before, but we tried not to let it deter our excitement for the Cubbies vs. Pirates game at Wrigley Field. We got there early enough to walk through Wrigleyville and I got my very first Cubs t-shirt. Sam was really excited to see his favorite team play and I was excited to be at Wrigley for the first time. The game started off scoreless through the first three or four innings, and we enjoyed some beer, hot dogs, and ballpark nachos. Then the Pirates started scoring. And scoring. And scoring! When we left the game was 10-0. Sam started rattling off statements that could only be heard elsewhere from one Rick Martin, such as, "God, I don't even know why I watch this team anymore! They are absolutely worthless! They constantly play like garbage and always let me down!! I wish I had never become a fan of these freaking Cubs!! They are an embarrassment to baseball!" Etc, etc, etc. (I will spare you the obscenities).
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Sammy and me in front of Wrigley.
After we left I wanted to stop in Nordstrom Rack that was near our hotel so I could use a gift card I had. Just as we got to the store, it started raining. By the time we left it was downpouring, so we had to purchase two umbrellas from there too. We made the five minute walk back to our hotel and successfully got drenched in the process. We had planned to go to the 96th floor of the Hancock Building that night, so we were bummed that the views would be distorted with clouds. We ended up going anyway and were able to see some of the fog lift before sunset.
Dinner that night was beyond amazing. We ate at a place several people had recommended called The Publican. It was in an area of Chicago that had a sort of Brooklyn feel to it. The seating was family style, so you ended up sitting with strangers next to you. I actually really liked it because it sparked conversation. It was an Americana style tapas theme, and there wasn't a single thing we got that we didn't love. The best thing we had was a barbecued pork belly. It literally melted in your mouth. We also had this raw asparagus dish that I'm bound to recreate at home. It was chopped raw asparagus, shaved parmessan, lentils, and oranges tossed in balsamic & olive oil. The flavors all complemented each other so well. Overall, just a phenomenal meal. Oh yeah, and it's a great beer spot - not that that matters for this vino girl though!!
Sunday morning was originally supposed to be the best weather of the weekend, so we had pre-booked an architectural boat tour for 11am that day. Again, we woke up to clouds and temperatures in the 50s. Just as we were approaching the docking station, the rain came again, and this time even harder than the day before. There was a heavy cloud of fog too, that didn't allow you to see the tops of any buildings. Exactly the worst conditions for an architectural tour. The tickets were non-refundable, so we decided we would just have to suck it up. There was a covered lower level on the boat, but by the time we got there, there weren't any seats left below, and there was no visibility to the buildings. We each bought a $2 poncho and went to the upper deck as the tour began and the rain continued to beat down on us. We got to hear a lot about the history of the city and how it became the architectural capital of America, and I did find it extremely interesting. If the weather had been on our side, I would have had no complaints.
By the time the 90-minute tour concluded, I was soaked to the bone, despite the best efforts of my poncho and umbrella to keep me dry. We decided we would get lunch on our way back to the hotel. We stumbled upon an Italian wine & cheese bar called Quartino and stopped in to eat. We warmed up with delicious soups served in individual clay dutch ovens. The food was wonderful and helped to lift our spirits over the weather.
The fog we had on the tour.
More fog.
That night we met some friends that Sam knew in town for some classic deep dish pizza at Lou Malnati's. It was SO GOOD. I had never had deep dish before and it was so much better than I was expecting. Not only that, the meal was very economical. After dinner we went out for some Chicago night life at a speak easy. I ended up turning in early, but Sam stayed out for some fun.
The next morning we packed up and headed back to the Big Apple. We were quite relieved to get home. Unfortunately, the weather had really taken a damper on our vacation, especially knowing everyone back home was enjoying sunny beach weather. I will say though that all the food we had was amazing and was my favorite part of the trip.
So how does Chicago compare to NYC? Here is my side-by-side comparison:
WHAT: Pizza
WINDY CITY: Deep dish. To eat: knife and fork may be necessary.
GOTHAM: Thin crust. To eat: fold and half and eat with your hands.
WINNER: TIE. Not only was the deep dish delicious and filling, it was cheap! Check out http://www.loumalnatis.com/ . But there is also something to be said for good ole slice of NY style thin crust. Favorite in the city is La Pizzaria: http://lapizzerianyc.com/ .
WHAT: ARCHITECTURE
WINDY CITY: Spacious and not as concerned about budget as they are about honoring the design.
GOTHAM: Buildings built narrow and tall, and not as many high quality buildings.
WINNER: WINDY CITY. There are so many more interesting buildings in Chicago than there are in New York, and they do not sacrifice the craftsmanship and art as much as NYC contractors.
WHAT: PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
WINDY CITY: Subways (the "L") and buses. Subways are differentiated by colors and are a bit sporadic in their coverage.
GOTHAM: Multiple train and subway options for all parts of town and the boroughs. GOTHAM. As much as I might complain about the MTA in NY, the public transport in Chicago is a joke compared to NY. It's not as easy to understand, it's slower, and does not cover as much of the city.
WHAT: ACCESSIBILITY TO OTHER CITIES
WINDY CITY: Major airport hub, so there are lots of flights to choose from. Located just an hour and a half plane ride from either New York or KC, but most bigger cities require a plane ride to get to.
GOTHAM: A bus ride away from Boston, Philly, and DC for $30 roundtrip, leaving every hour, but it's a long plane ride to Phoenix or Cali.
WINNER: GOTHAM. Closer to more major cities in my opinion.
WHAT: BAR SCENE
WINDY CITY: Can't speak to this much, but the drinks sure are cheaper!
GOTHAM: Every type of scene imaginable. People drink a lot in this city because most apartments are too small to just go and "hang out" with friends, so our bars become what other people use couches for. Drinks can be insanely expensive. I get reverse sticker shock when I go to other cities.
WINNER: TIE. Depends whether you want options & scenes vs. economics.
WHAT: PEOPLE
WINDY CITY: Walk at a much slower pace, but incredibly friendly and full of manners. Everyone has faith in humanity.
GOTHAM: Everyone has an edge, and in order to survive here, you must develop one too. One time walking down the street outside of Grand Central Terminal, a guy was walking the opposite direction of me and bumped my shoulder so hard that I almost fell. No apologies. But I did turn around and yell some choice words. No one has faith in humanity and if you do, you'll get your identity stolen or scammed some other way.
WINNER: WINDY CITY (as if it weren't obvious...). Oh, how I miss the people in the Midwest. People actually look you in the eye and say please and thank you. They do need to learn to walk faster though.
WHAT: SPORTS
WINDY CITY: They've got the Cubbies, the White Sox, the Bears, etc. Wrigley is a cool experience, but the fans don't really get into the game very much.
GOTHAM: Nine professional sports teams plus some minor league teams. Fans here are die hard. But they are also haters.
WINNER: GOTHAM. Gotta love the passion.
WHAT: WEATHER
WINDY CITY: When it's nice, it's nice, but when it's bad, it's baaaaaad. Snowy, windy, and cold most of the year.
GOTHAM: Similar to weather in the midwest, but without the thunderstorms. It's typically 5-10 degrees warmer here in the winter compared to KC, and 5-10 cooler here in the summer compared to KC. I'm in a constant debate with myself if it's worse here or in KC, though, because here you are exposed to the elements. We don't just have cars to jump into and crank up the AC or the heat. When it snows, we have no choice but to walk through it, and all the cement from the tall buildings radiate the heat like an oven, making the whole city smell like a garbage can.
WINNER: GOTHAM. I can't deal with the cold.
WHAT: COST
WINDY CITY: Midwestern costs, slightly elevated depending on neighborhood, etc.
GOTHAM: Insanely expensive. For what we pay in rent, we could have a mortgage on a 3-4 bedroom house in the midwest. Beers are $7 or $8 & rent is typically half of a person's monthly income. Most people in their 20's still have some sort of financial support from their parents, unless they work in finance.
WINNER: WINDY CITY. (No need to explain why!)
OVERALL WINNER:
What can I say? I love New York...